I have been enjoying a life with fairly constant electricity and running water for the past week. So I’ve been able to take wonderfully hot showers and use a toilet that flushes, talk to many people who I’ve been missing a bunch, and enjoy cold drinks out at a restaurant. To get to this city, however, is never the easiest thing to do. Traveling in this country never goes exactly right, a perfect example being when I was on a train for site visit and the train split in half, leaving my car behind. When this happened nobody reacted because its not unusual for something to happen to stop your travels, such as a train splitting in half.
After a nice, long prison bus ride for around 5 hours, I arrived in Meiganga. There is nothing like bonding with your fellow passengers as they use your shoulder as their headrest or your lap to hold their possessions. We all bonded even more once it started to rain. This is bizarre considering it very rarely rains during the dry season, like pretty much never. So we all exchanged quizzical looks that then turned to resigned Oh-well-nothing-I-can-do-about-it looks, and then myself and the fellow window passengers all got a nice shower. So after hanging out in such a fashion for a couple of hours, you hop off the car, everyone exchanges quick glances and smiles to acknowledge the wonderful ride you shared, and you part ways. It was pouring once I arrived, but since I was already soaking wet this didn’t really bother me. I wandered around aimlessly since my friends in Meiganga weren’t in the city yet, ate a delicious egg brunch, had my first cold drink in a month and then went to my friend’s house to relax and prep for the next leg of my journey.
A hot bucket bath, movie, good food, and a good night sleep later, I went back to the bus station. Surrounded by motos, stands selling things ranging from little trinkets to veggies, and just tons of people milling around who have nothing better to do, I fight threw the crowd listening to people say Nassara! Nassara! which means white person. I ignore this because acknowledging it does absolutely nothing. I get to an area with a few benches and at least 20 people standing or sitting around and look for a corner to hide myself until the bus gets here. The guy who reserves seats recognizes me and believes that my name is Helene. So upon arrival I hear Helene! Helene! pretty concerned he asks why I missed the early bus. i just explained that sometimes I like to sleep past 5 am and figured that it didn’t matter if I got on the slightly later bus at 10am. He agreed that this wasn’t a problem, so I plopped my stuff down, bought myself some beignets, sat on my moto helmet and took out my book. 5 minutes into it I notice this older woman wrapped in the traditional Fulbe attire staring at me intently. Once I looked at her and smiled, she gave me a hesitant smile and then looked away. This exchange is far from new, so I ignore it and continue reading. Though, once again I feel someone staring, so I look up and it was the same cute, little old woman. I smile, give a small wave, and say Sannu which is hello in fulfulde. She gives me a huge smile, turns her full body towards me and we then exchange the traditional salutations. I told her that I was going to Ngaoundere, she said something which I didn’t understand but assumed was that she was making the same trip. The fulfulde continued but I maxed out right after I said where I was going. So I gave her a confused smile shaking my head, however the old woman than took me under her wing. This was fortunate because I had no idea which bus was mine, since there isn’t an announcement or anything. She ushers me in front of her in line, sees a man sitting by a window and tells him to save me a seat next to him. I have no way of knowing thats exactly what she said, but I assumed after I got on the bus and the man shouted to everyone else to essentially help me crowd surf over them to get to him in the back row.
Finally, everyone was settled in the bus. I was next to a woman who didn’t acknowledge me at all and the man who saved my spot. With bags at my feet and my backpack on my lap, my moto helmet on the man’s lap, I got my toes in this little space on the floor, got my body positioned sideways with one shoulder forward and one shoulder behind the woman’s and settled down for another 5 hour ride. The man next to me loved the window, so it was wide open the whole way with his head hanging out. Considering the heat, this would be a great idea but every window passenger gets to decide the fate of the people next to them. Either their neighbors melt in the heat with a closed window or get covered in dust and leave the bus with asthma. My neighbor chose dirt and asthma, and then oddly enough, it rained again. So my neighbor then got to choose between heat and water. Of course he chose being wet, but unfortunately the rain didn’t last very long so we were shortly back to dust. With a bandana wrapped around my face, I stared at my neighbor truly amazed. How was it possible that the dirt wasn’t bothering him? He was a weird orange color due to the dust 3 hours into the ride, and I decided that he was either a badass or a moron. Shortly after this thought process the bus stopped so the driver can buy some avocados. My neighbor than hands me the moto helmet, thanks me for taking hold of my own helmet, and does a smooth dive out the window landing on his feet. After this James Bond-like move I came to the conclusion that he is in fact a badass.
Finally, I arrived in Ngaoundere, the capital city of my region. I can definitely say that the journey was worth it. I hung out with fellow volunteers who were all there for the regional meeting, arriving at the peace corps house in waves. Each person was so covered in dirt that they resembled oompa-loompas. The journey was worth it, but I do miss my village. I miss it enough to want to make the journey back, so that has to say something. Though, I’m convinced that you know you’re doing something right when everything you do, even a bus ride, can turn into a story.